South Africa is a country of contrasts, a mix of black and white, rich and poor, technology and tradition, city and wilderness. Recently, I got to experience both the modern city life, and the rustic and remote.
When I was in South Africa recently, I got to experience a little of these opposites in lifestyle and in philosophy. I spent a week in the comfort and class of modern, mostly glass, mountain side home overlooking the sea in Cape Town. I enjoyed Cape Town’s relaxed but vibrant lifestyle, incredible restaurants, and spectacular scenery.
Then I drove 300 miles east to visit an old friend, and spend a few days in rustic cottage, completely off the grid, in the semi-desert of the Klein Karoo wilderness. I was eager to reconnect with Ross, see how he lived, and learn something about his lifestyle and philosophy (which is very different to mine).
Ross and his partner Kathy run the Numbi Valley Permaculture Farm.
We arrived a little later than expected but Ross was waiting and gave us a warm welcome.
The “Pizza Lounge”
We had planned ahead and ordered the pizza for dinner. It was a good move! While we unpacked Ross prepared the pizza. We soon joined him in the “pizza lounge,” outdoors with the canopy of stars for cover.
Ross had the pizza oven fired up and had laid out a delicious looking spread, including his homemade pizza base with ingredients fresh from the garden.
Watching Ross make a pizza is something to behold. He pre-cooks the pizza base in the oven, then adds the toppings then tosses it back into the oven. He keeps a constant eye on it, rotating it every few seconds to ensure it cooks and browns the crust evenly.
When the pizza finally emerged, it was light, crisp and delicious, with a vibrant mix of flavors including garlic, goat’s cheese, cilantro, chives and pomegranate seeds.
Although it was winter, the weather was mild and we sat around the glow of the oven, eating pizza, sipping wine, and chatting. Ross told us about how he and Kathy came to Numbi Valley and rebuilt the remains of the barren, former ostrich farm into a thriving permaculture farm buzzing with birds and wildlife.
He told us of his adventures as a game lodge manager in Botswana and Tanzania, and his time living in the Amazon jungle in South America. We talked late into the night. It was a great evening and a fine introduction to Numbi Valley.
Rugged Comfort
The guest cottage was cozy and comfortable, and had plenty of room for the three of us. There’s a gas-fired stove and gas fridge, with a wood-fired water heater for the shower. Yes, you have to make a fire to take a hot shower. The lights are solar/battery powered. The stove and oven are gas. Only the shower gave away the fact that we were off the grid, every other powered feature functioned smoothly and on demand. We all slept well and woke up refreshed the next morning and ready to roll.
And what a gorgeous day it was. We were greeted by a sunrise over the vista of rolling hills and the Swartberg mountains. The sunrise accentuated the warm colors of the earth and the mud walls of the cottage. I’m not a morning person, but I climbed out of bed, and out the window (don’t ask), to get some early morning photos of the sun rise and the landscape.
Ross came over for coffee and then showed us around the farm. He explained how he and Kath had renovated the original abode, the guest cottage where we stayed, and then built the new main farmhouse. He took us on a tour of the vegetable garden. He explained how they minimized pests in the garden, the role of the chickens in the “chicken tractor,” why different vegetables were interleaved with a variety of flowers in the same flowerbed, and how they grow and harvest their main crop of olives.
Heavens Alive
What’s on the ground at Numbi Valley is beautiful, but what’s above you is just as awe-inspiring. In the remote and lightless Klein Karoo, you get a great view of the stars. That night we sat around the fire and stared at the stars for hours. They were brighter and more numerous than I ever recall. We saw five planets. Jupiter, Venus and Mars, were spectacularly clear and bright. We saw the International Space Station whizz by.
We really enjoyed our few days at Numbi Valley. Ross was a key part of our experience. His knowledge of the area, of the plants and animals, and of building and farming techniques, were key to our appreciation and enjoyment of the area. His pizza forever raised the bar on what pizza could and should be. We were reluctant to leave.
Ross recommended we cross the Swartberg and take a more northerly route on our way to Paternoster back on the west coast. We did, traversing the canyon-like gap in the Swartberg Mountains and stopping at the Meiringspoort Falls. That’s something I’d recommend to anyone visiting Numbi Valley.
Numbi Valley’s serene isolation amidst the rugged and sparse beauty of the Swartberg makes it an ideal getaway for those wanting to relax, enjoy the outdoors, and learn about the permaculture philosophy and techniques. The farm and guest house exude Ross and Kath’s warmth, creativity and resourcefulness. Just the thing to help you relax and refuel.
It was an unforgettable few days, vastly different to your typical vacation. If you want to relax far from throbbing masses and bustling city, it doesn’t get much more tranquil and relaxing than Numbi Valley.
You can learn more about Numbi Valley Permaculture Farm on their Facebook page.
